torek, 29. maj 2012

Xian - mesto glinenih bojevnikov - Xian - city of terracotta army


Xian


Po dobro prespani noči na vlaku sem se po prihodu v Xian (čeprav je bila ura šele 6 zjutraj,) počutila tako fino, da sem šla spet kar peš do hostla. Bila sem tako blizu enega od dveh razlogov, ki sta me privedla na Kitajsko: to so Bojevniki iz terakote, da se mi je zdelo, da ne morem vec cakati. In so resnično izjemni.





Brez težav bi jih lahko poimenovali osmo čudo sveta. Vsak obraz je drugačen, izdelani so v naravni velikosti in služili so cesarju kot vojska v posmrtnem življenju. Glede na njihovo število je videti, da se je res bal tekmecev v onostranstvu. Izkopavanje in restavracijska dela še vedno potekajo in morda jih bo čez nekaj let na ogled se  več.

Na poti nazaj sem srečala dva fanta in dekle, ki so zjutraj prišli istočasno kot jaz. Šli vsi skupaj nekaj pojest. Privoščili smo si kitajske cmoke v restavraciji, kjer hrano pripeljejo kar na vozičku in vse, kar moraš storiti je, pokazati s prstom, kaj bi. Tako vsaj enkrat veš, kaj dobiš, pa še takoj je na mizi. Enostavno in odlično! Bi rekla, da je bilo to ena od boljših stvari, ki sem jih jedla na Kitajskem. Pa se odlična družba popotnikov. Ure in ure pogovorov o potovanjih, dogodivščinah, pripetljajih, destinacijah ... Počutila  sem, da sem res tam, kamor spadam :)
Xian je precej sproščen, kar me je dohitelo naslednjega dne, ko sem res pozno vstala. Šla sem po karto za vlak, saj je treba tu vse karte kupiti vsaj dan ali dva vnaprej, da potuješ takrat, ko želiš. Je pa res, da ko je enkrat karta kupljena, ni več izmišljevanja.
Kasneje sem vandrala po mestu. Obiskala pagodo ali dve, si ogledala muzej province Shanxi,







za večerjo pa zavila v muslimansko četrt. Si izberem kar eno restavracijo, pred katero so pekli meso na palčkah (take mini ražnjiče),


jih pokažem natakarici, ki pokima in me pelje do hladilnika in mi ponudi koka kolo. Še vedno ne razumem ravno, kakšna je bila povezava! A sem vseeno dobila svoje ražnjiče s pomočjo ene prijazne Kitajke, ki je verjetno opazila, kako obupano gledam. Prav nenavadno, ampak čedalje bolj opažam, da geste, ki imajo povsod po svetu podoben pomen, tu ni Kitajskem nekako ne dosežejo učinka. Ena častna izjema je drgnjenje palca in kazalca, kar seveda pomeni denar. Kitajci so nori na denar. V vsakem templju molijo za dve stvari:  da bi imeli denar in da bi dolgo živeli.
 Tako je danes moj zadnji dan v Xianu.

Sem ga spet pol prehodila (tako največ doživiš), šla nazaj v muslimansko četrt na kosilo, zdaj pa odtipkavam ure do  nočnega vlaka za Pingyao.


Xian,

27. maj 

After a good night sleep on the train even an early arrival to Xian wasn't so bad. I walked again over half of the city to my hostel. Being so close to one of my 2 reasons for being in China - the Terracotta Warriors (the other one being the Great Wall) I felt I couldn't wait another day to see it, so I went right away. And they are a sight! It really could be the 8th wonder of the world. All those expressions on the faces, not two being alike, the enormity of work behind it and also the enormity of the excavation and restoration work being done. One word: impressive!

On the way back to the hostel I met some people who were staying in the same hostel and all together we went for diner. Chinese dumplings in a restaurant where they bring all sorts of food on the chariot and all you have to do is pointing. You know what you get and it's immediately on your table:-) Very easy and good as hell! One of the best meals I had until now in China. And the pleasure of company of backpackers. Talking hours about traveling, destinations, experiences, - I felt like I'm right where I belong.

Xian is quite relaxed city. Next day it proved to me. I had a late start and figuring that's only one thing I absolutely have to do that day is going to the train station and buy a ticket to next destination. That's one thing in China: one always has to buy tickets in advance which basically means that once it is bought you can't really change your mind.

Later on I just walked around the city (I m really doing enormous amount of walking). I visited the Big Goose Pagoda, the Shanxi museum and for the dinner I chose the Muslim Quarter. I walked into one restaurant and I pointed to some meat on the sticks which looked like it will be barbecued. The lady takes me to the refrigerator and wants to give me a  Coca Cola! I still don t understand what was the connection! But I got my meal with the help of some nice Chinese girl who probably saw a dispear on my face. Chinese are really not skilled in gesturing. The all-around-the-world gestures here most of the times mean nothing. One notable exception being rubbing index and thumb together which of course means: money:-)

And today, being my last day in Xian, after some obligatory sightseeing I went back to Muslim Quarter for lunch, where I met this Brazilian girl and had a great lunch and great company, and now, here I am, typing away the hours before the night train to Pingyao.


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